Western Europe Trip - Day 3 (July 2013)




German Huenengrab - old megalith site

Today is megalith day as we try to visit a few megalith sites in Germany and Netherlands. While researching it is surprising to us how little known the sites are and nothing that see over the day in Germany changes that perception. But first we start in Netherlands in our secluded location. We eat the breakfast at the hotel which is quite good and then we start toward Hoge Veluwe National Park which is close by and the most well known national park in Netherlands. However when we find out the price of the entrance we decide that we will continue and not stop as the entrance is by person and not by car which makes it really expensive. We stop to walk in a different free park nearby which is also quite nice and nobody else is around which makes for a nice short hike.

Wild pig statue in NetherlandsNetherlands scenic view
Bike paths are everywhereClose up of the vegetation

And then we pass the border and enter Germany to visit our first megalith or Huenengrab (Hun Grave) as they are called locally, the Thuine Huenengrab. Without the precise info regarding the location we have downloaded it would have been impossible to find. Even so we are surprised as we pull up near the one lane road where the pavement ends in what almost feels like wilderness. There is no one around even though this is advertised as the biggest and most preserved megalith in the area. The short trail to the megalith is nice with quite a few flowers and then we arrive at the picnic area next to the megalith with a description of how it was found and how it became a local point of interest.

Trail to the Thuine HuenengrabThese flowers were everywhere
Interesting construction near the ruinsDescription of the megalithic ruins

The megalith ruins are a bit different than we expected it is quite long and it is comprised of multiple huge stones mostly formations of 3 stones with 2 stones holding a third one as a capstone. We walk around it and we have the whole location to ourselves which is great as we can explore everything in quiet.

The megalith in ensemblePart of the megalith
Impressive stonesA section of the Huenengrab

The second megalith in Germany on the Strasse der Megalithkulthur that we are following is the Grosssteingrab auf dem Radberg. While the turnout from the highway is marked we are finding it difficult to identify where to leave our car on the side of an agricultural dirt road and where the megalith actually is. Finally we get to it after a nice hike through the fields and then through the forest with quite a few flowers.

Sometimes there were signs to the megalithsFields of grains
Last part to the "grab" is again on footRoad/trail to the Huenergrab

This megalith is smaller and overgrown in places - it looks more natural even though it is a bit difficult to determine its size and length. It seems lost in the forest and time almost and it wouldn't have surprised us much if suddenly some Goths would appear from the bushes (they don't). After some exploration of the forest we hike back to the car and drive further up to the third and last megalith that we intend to visit in Germany.

This one is smallerStill it is impressive
General viewClose up of a section

Going north we pass through a few small german towns until we arrive at Meppen, a medium sized town, where we stop to buy some groceries which else is difficult due to opening hours. After our shopping spree is finished we continue to the "Der Steinerner Schluessel" - The Iron Key the last megalith for us on the german side. It takes a bit to find it but after getting lost in the forest a few times we find it and then decide to stop at a nice picnic table nearby near a small lake to eat, especially that now we have provisions from the supermarket in Meppen.

Last megalith on the german sideNice place for a lunch
Lake covered by waterlilliesWater lily close up

While we finished with the megaliths on the german side we still have one more on the Netherlands side (where they are called hunebedden). Actually there are three of them in close proximity in an impressive sight. THe one closest to where we parked the car is the best even though it was almost destroyed multiple times due to the wars that passed through the area. After taking pictures from all angles we start back towards Apeldoorn and our hotel.

Hunebedden (megalith) in NetherlandsAnother smaller megality
Length of the megalithClose up of megalith

On the way back we still have one stop planned, Hattem, a former Hansa city. After a bit of searching we find a parking spot. The parking area is right next to a waterway full of birds which we enjoy before entering the city proper. Right after we enter we find a few storehouses that according to our brochure are from the Hansa times - the whole city actually looks like it is stuck in time and with the lack of other people it is an otherworldly feeling.

River near HattemWaterbird fishing
Hattem - an old Hansa townFormer Hansa warehouse

As we follow the exterior wall we arrive at the Dyke Gate which is huge and a reminder of the period of glory of the city. Right outside the gate is an ivy covered building that looks like an inn from the storybooks. Returning into the city we go straight towards the center with its ornated City Hall and old buildings.

Dyke gateInteresting building
Hattem City HallDowntown square with old houses

Another attraction of Hattem is the former moat which encircles the wall even now in the form of a waterway which now is taken over by ducks and some interesting statues.

Quiet lake with birdsOne of the many geese
Canals are everywhereInteresting sculptures in the canal

The wall around Hattem is still mostly intact (or reconstructed) and we walk along it while exploring a few of the gates we encounter and visiting the sheeps that are held right outside the wall - likely the same as it was hundreds of years ago. We also encounter likely the only humans in Hattem playing the regional sport of pelanque (throwing a metal ball close to a target).

Walking trail to one of the gatesThe wall path
Raising sheep in the downtown areaPeople playing the traditional sport of petanque

As we wander through the old town we wonder at the flowers and art which seem to be everywhere. The sculptures are sometimes modern and sometimes medieval but they are always interesting.

Flowers are everywhereInteresting display
Well landscaped gardenOld looking sculpture

As we walk back to the car we continue admiring the old houses and the central cathedral which is right next to the city hall. Everything is quiet and majestic and overall Hattem certainly was a surprise to us with its well preserved medieval buildings, downtown and wall. As the evening is approaching we have to start the drive back to Apeldoorn to spend the night in our relatively rustic accomodations. Tomorrow is a long day of driving through four different countries to our new base in Luxembourg.

Narrow street in HattemCentral cathedral of Hattem
Side of cathedralFormer priest home
Old downtown housesInteresting windows on old house



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