Thailand is a country that was high on our list of countries to visit for some time however as our trips are usually in the second half of the year when Thailand is either is to hot or in the middle of the rainy season we never made it. This time we have enough vacation time for a week and a bit in February and decide to use it for Thailand with an added bonus of being able to meet with relatives also traveling that way.
The start of the trip is by no means auspicious as our evening Delta flight out of Phoenix to Los Angeles gets delayed by more than 4 hours (our layover time in Los Angeles) due to plane mechanical malfunction making us miss the connection. After a lot of waiting around and calling with each airline and travel agency involved we get a new ticket for next morning. In the morning we get the same broken down plane with exactly the same outcome - another cancelation. Now we get pushed back to the evening and a route that has no relation with our original one - we are going Atlanta first so in the wrong direction before Seoul and then Bangkok. And we also have to spend the night in Atlanta. At least the plane leaves this time and we are on our way.
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| The super blue red moon rising | The plane that we hate now with a passion |
Delta certainly doesn't do its reputation with us any favors when we arrive in Atlanta. They said that someone will be waiting at the plane with our complimentary lodging. No one is there. We finally find a customer service rep who instead of working with us is talking loudly about family and what not to another rep and only after about 10 minutes decides to try to help us. Even then she says that we are not entitled to complimentary lodging so after more than 1 day delay and tired we now have to argue that this is not what we were told until she finally relents suggesting that she does us a great favor by providing what was already agreed upon. The hotel at least is relatively close and good and the next day we are a bit better rested to continue on our odyssey.
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| Atlanta hotel near airport | Inside the hotel |
The plane to Seoul is mercifully leaving on time and is quite nice and we enjoy our flight as well our brief visit to the Incheon airport before continuing to Bangkok where after taking a taxi we arrive around midnight at the hotel and after meeting our party we are soon asleep.
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| Full Korean Air flight | In flight food |
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| Korea - not where we expected to arrive | Inside the Incheon airport |
We were supposed to have a full day in Bangkok however with our adventures we missed it completely, however the rest of our party arrived on time and therefore had one day to acclimatize to Thailand and visit the capital. The photos for this day (and descriptions) are not ours directly but follow our plan for the day - we just never made it :). The hotel we have chosen is close to the skytrain - an elevated rapid transit system that unfortunately skirts the tourist area so you have to take a boat afterwards to arrive at the major tourist attractions. Still the boat ride is quite scenic so worth taking any way.
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| Starting point - Skytrain | Time to change to a different mode of transportation |
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| Boat is the only way to get close to the tourist area | Not yet time to descent here - still impressive |
The major attraction of Bangkok is the Grand Palace which is the the official residence of the Kings of Siam (and later Thailand) since 1782 however they do not live there permanently anymore. It is currently partially open to the public as a museum, but it remains a working palace, with several royal offices still situated inside. Rather than being a single structure, the Grand Palace is made up of numerous buildings set around open lawns, gardens and courtyards. It is also very popular with tourists as can be seen in the photos.
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| Grand Palace - sooo many people | Entrance defenders |
Inside the Grand Palace grounds sits Wat Phra Kaew, commonly known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It is regarded as the most sacred Buddhist temples (Wat) in Thailand. The Emerald Buddha housed in the temple is a potent religio-political symbol and considered to be the protective image of Thai society. As such the temple is richly decorated and quite impressive even though the throngs of people make it difficult to enjoy it.
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| Wat Phra Kaew | Entrance to Wat Phra Kaew |
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| Quite a lot of gold | Some of the paintings |
The next stop is the Grand Palace itself (the front at least) where with a bit of luck we can observe the changing of the guard. Wonder how they can use those uniforms during the summer heat - now the weather is quite reasonable though.
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| Grand Palace | Waiting for something |
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| The changing of the guard | Queue for leaving |
Next we walk to Wat Pho just south of the Grand Palace examining the buildings on the way and wondering at the number of tuk tuks on the streets - they seem to be quite popular.
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| Official looking building | Tuk tuks waiting |
Wat Pho also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha is first on the list of six temples in Thailand classed as the highest grade of the first-class royal temples.It is associated with King Rama I who rebuilt the temple complex on an earlier temple site, and became his main temple where some of his ashes are enshrined. It houses the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand with the most famous one being the 46m reclining Buddha (which is really impossible to capture in one photo:)).
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| Wat Pho entrance | Part of the Reclining Buddha |
Arguably the most well known and famous temple, Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn), sits however on the other side of the river so a short boat ride is necessary to reach it. The temple enshrined the Emerald Buddha image before it was transferred to Wat Phra Kaew on the river's eastern bank in 1785 and was located in grounds of the royal palace during Taksin's reign, before his successor, Rama I, moved the palace also to the other side of the river. It was abandoned for a long period of time, until the reign of King Rama II (1809–1824), who had the temple restored and the main pagoda raised to 70 m. The central prang is covered with ceramic tiles which give it a distinct appearance versus the other Thai temples that we visit during our trip.
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| Wat Arun - impressive | At the foot of Wat Arun |
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| Sculpture details | And some ceramics detail |
After Wat Arun it is time to leave the central area and return to the area around the hotel using the boat and the elevated train - it is much more efficient to do this than to brave the traffic using a taxi or a tuk tuk.
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| The huge defenders are everywhere | Back to the boat |
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| Rush hour traffic | Thank god for overpasses |
In the evening it is time to take a look at the different markets and temples around the hotel - it is mostly looking but no buying except for some street food as a lunch/dinner. And then later in the evening the reminder of the party is arriving from Phoenix and we are one big, happy group again as we leave Bangkok the next day:).
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| What to eat? | Maybe some fruit? |
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| Modern building | Inside a temple |
In the morning we finally have a chance to see the area from our hotel - it is quite modern with many high rises all around us. We can even see the elevated train running in the distance so it looks quite futuristic.
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| Hotel window view | Airport Rail to airport |
One of the buildings that we see from the window is the Baiyoke Tower one of the tallest hotels in the world which is close by - we are happy in our more modest building though:).
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| Baiyoke Tower - over 300m tall | Another futuristic building closeby |
The room itself is small but functional and given that we spend only a few hours inside it is good enough for us especially with the nice views. The hotel otherwise has a very modern look which is not unexpected given that it is quite new.
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| Hotel room | Inside the hotel |
Before leaving for the airport it is time for breakfast and we are surprised at the variety of choices that we can either self serve or order (for free of course). WE order a soup which is quite typical for Thai breakfast as we learn in the next days and taste as much as we can before picking our bags and starting our trip back to the airport that we left only a few hours ago.
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| Breakfast buffet area | This is typical Thai breakfast |
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| Lots of other choices... | ....fruit too |
Supposedly our hotel has a free ride to train station however when we ask about it they offer it only for money so we decide to walk the short distance carrying our luggage so we can see at least a part of Bangkok. While the streets initially are quite narrow luckily there are very few cars and afterwards we can use the sidewalk to safely arrive at the train station that leads to the airport.
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| Front of hotel | Walking to the train station |
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| Usual traffic | Not the only people arriving with luggage |
Given that today is Sunday there are relatively few people in the train which is quite lucky as the train interior is not built specially for airport traffic (no luggage storage especially). At the airport we find the car rental agency and after asking them to refuel the car (they said it is delivered full while actually it is half only) we are on our way.
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| Airport Rail link station | Inside the train to the airport |
Our initial plan was to go around Bangkok but given that it is Sunday and the GPS says that traffic is ok we go right through the city. And the traffic really is ok except for the two accidents we see that do not slow the traffic considerably however. And then we arrive in the outskirts and have to follow our GPS carefully to our first destination, Ayutthaya. Probably the slowest part is right in Ayutthaya where we are trying to find a parking space/any parking space for the ruins. Finally we find one of the parking areas and have our first culture shock - at the restroom located in the parking lot you have to take of your shoes to enter - this was not true in Japan and seems quite....unsanitary.
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| Good traffic for Bangkok | Arriving in the outskirts |
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| Display in Ayutthaya | More modern restroom - still have to take off shoes |
While looking for the ruins we are routed through a small shopping mall that we examine for any souvenirs or anything interesting. It seems focused on food and cold drinks mostly and we decide to buy something when we return to the car.
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| Souvenir and food stands | Something to eat....maybe |
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| Fruits....also maybe | No idea - possibly to be prepared and eaten |
Even after exiting the shopping area we are unsure on where to go so we just continue in one direction hoping to find ruins/any ruins. We pass a few which are not that impressive and then after giving a wide berth to some elephants we finally see something in the distance and that is where we are going first.
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| Where are the ruins? | Is this all? |
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| Modern mode of transportation | And ancient |
Founded around 1350, Ayutthaya became the second Siamese capital after Sukhothai. It was destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century. Its remains, characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and gigantic monasteries, give an idea of its past splendour and we are planning to see as much as we can. The first stop is Wat Phra Ram, constructed on the cremation site of the first Ayutthayan monarch, King Ramathibodi I and is therefore the oldest temple. It is built in a Khmer style similar to the later temples.
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| Wat Phra Ram from a distance | The entrance |
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| Huge central prang and the plaza in front | Close up of prang |
One question we had is why this huge temples were built. Robert Heine-Geldern explains in his "Conceptions of State and Kingship in Southeast Asia" (1956) that the religious merit acquired in previous lives, makes a man born a king or makes him acquire kingship during his lifetime. Merit was as thus political legitimacy. The more merit was accrued (in building temples and offering valuables), the more legitimacy for the king or the king-to-be was endowed which is why kings were building such huge temples. Also in the Early Ayutthaya period it seemed to be a custom to establish a monastery on the Royal funeral pyre and to erect a funeral monument (chedi/prang) for the deceased in commemoration. And the prang here is exquisite especially as it is the first one we are seeing in Ayutthaya.
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| Walking through the ruins | Interpretative signs can be quite good |
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| Beautiful chedi | Walls - are they crooked? |
We walk around the main prang taking in all the different restored or preserved architectural detail on the prang, chedis and the low walls. There is even a small Buddha statue still surviving even though most where destroyed during the sacking of the city.
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| This is beautiful | Impressive architecture |
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| Most Buddhas were destroyed | The back exit - cannot be used |
Now it is time to find the second temple to visit. On the way we pass the lakes that were part of the Royal complex, now tranquil with egrets close to the shore and mynas foraging on land.
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| Restroom building - closed unfortunately | Lake in the middle of the archaeological area |
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| Myna bird | Little egret |
With a map printed from home we decide to visit Wat Maha That next passing a few other beautiful chedis, prangs and other assorted ruins on the way to the main entrance. Which proves itself difficult to find - we already have a ticket but no one to give it to and as we split to search for the entrance a few of us get lost and find themselves inside the protected area - very weird, while the reminder of the group actually finds the entrance and enters it officially.
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| Wat Langhakhao | Wat Maha That in the distance |
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| Getting closer | Chedi find in a forest |
The prangs right next to the entrance are quite spectacular already and as a bonus they even have a spotted owlet peering at us from a hole high in one of the prangs.
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| Can you see anything differerent? | Spotted owlet |
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| Inside Wat Maha That | Buddha in nice setting |
The major tourist attraction at Wat Maha That is the Buddha face incorporated in the roots of a banyan tree. However the whole grounds are really worth a visit, there are many smaller buildings in different stages of ruin/reconstruction scattered on the site.
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| Famous Buddha face in a tree | Some walls are propped up |
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| Walking through the ruins | Close up of Buddha |
The main prang looks like a small pyramid and the chedis and stupas are quite beautiful and we can only guess how impressive the temple must have been during the years it was standing. This reinforces its importance as Wat Maha That was one of the most important monasteries of the Ayutthaya kingdom, not only because it was the religious centre and enshrined relics of the Buddha, but also because of its proximity to the Grand Palace. It was also a royal monastery and the seat of the Supreme Patriarch of the City Dwelling sect till the end of the Ayutthaya period.
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| Looks like a pyramid | Impressive row of chedis/stupas |
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| Beautiful twin towers | The leaning tower of Ayutthaya |
The third major temple that we visit in the area is Wat Ratchaburana which has an interesting story behind it. A Siam king had three sons ruling parts of the country and upon his death the first and the second born, led their armies to Ayutthaya in order to claim the throne. Both princes engaged each other in personal combat, mounted on elephant and as luck would have it they killed each other so the youngest brother was then invited to Ayutthaya to lead the kingdom. He commanded two chedi built on the site where his brothers engaged in battle, cremated both his brothers and on their cremation site Wat Rachaburana was built. The construction is similar with the other temples with a huge prang in the middle that can even be entered.
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| Wat Ratchaburana entrance | Huge restored prang |
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| Close up of prang | Top of prang |
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| Detail at the base | Close up of detail |
We climb dutifully to the top for a nice view of the complex however we do not descend to the crypt in the middle of the prang due to the number of tourists clogging the very narrow staircase.
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| Entrance temple from prang | Staircase down in middle of prang |
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| Pigeon embedded in wall | Stupas in the distance |
Now it is time to return towards the parking lot where we finally deciphered using our map that we just missed the biggest temple complex of them all. We pass through a slightly different route but it still seems that we are unable to avoid the elephants - they are quite popular as a ride in the park.
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| Multitude of people | Lots of tuk tuks |
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| University on the way | Quite a few elephants |
Soon we notice our goal - Wat Phra Sri Sanphet - the most important temple of Ayutthaya and situated within the Grand Palace grounds. It served as a model for the
Temple of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok. Multiple kings worked at either expanding the complex by building chedis or restoring it and the temple was used exclusively by the Ayutthayan kings.
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| Wat Phra Si Sanphet - first view | Modern temple nearby |
The most famous view of Ayutthaya is likely that of the row of three chedis built by multiple kings in the early 16th century. During its heyday it housed a huge Buddha statue which was covered in 343kg of gold but was melted down after the invasion and destruction of Ayutthaya.
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| Restored chedis | One of the chedis |
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| Chedis from the opposite direction | Smaller chedi |
A few stone statues and details remain leaving the rest to imagination, how magnificent it must have been during its heyday. We walk all around it until we finally find an entrance that leads to the north towards the Royal Palace.
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| Remains of the buddhas | Monks visiting the temple |
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| Row of stupas | A bit of shadow is welcome |
Unfortunately almost nothing remains of the Royal Palace which was razed down during the Burmese invasion. Even the modern model of the palace seems to have suffered after a more recent invasion with the whole pavilion being burned to our surprise.
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| Destroyed royal palace was here | And the replica was also destroyed |
As we exit we are getting a bit hungry so as planned we decide to eat something from the row of eateries in the shopping row. We try something which is very cheap but we cannot deduce what it is and what the raw materials are just that it is quite good.
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| Maybe we should try this | Quite good |
Next it is time for an hour drive to our accomodation - this time the highways are quite busy especially in the cities and it seems we are passing through a long continuous city almost all the way to the hotel. Mercifully the hotel is off the highway so we cannot hear the noise from the highway however it is far from anything to eat so we have to drive to the nearest place we find on our phone.
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| Typical traffic on the highways | Our room |
While the hotel manager recommended more Chinese/American food we decide to try a Thai restaurant and after getting an English menu we decide on a mix of foods, all of them being quite good and not at all spicy so we leave full and ready for the next day.
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| Thai dinner | Nice presentation |
We have two full days in the area and we are planning to spend the first one close to the accomodation in the Khao Yai National Park. However before leaving we have to fortify ourselves with a Thai breakfast which as usual includes some soup besides more usual fare.
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| Our room | Duck collection |
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| Breakfast area | Typical breakfast soup |
While the park is only half hour away we run into an unexplained traffic slowdown right before the turnoff from the main highway which takes some time to pass but after that the traffic is much better and soon we reach the gates to the National Park.
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| Not what we expected | This is better |
Khao Yai, one of the most famous national parks in Thailand was established in 1962 as Thailand's first national park and is the third largest national park in Thailand. The park covers an area of 2,168 square kilometres, including rain/evergreen forests and grasslands, is home to around 300 resident and migratory birds and has one of Thailand's largest populations of hornbills. It is also one of the best places to look for wild elephants as well as other mammals like the Macaques that we see only a few kilometers into the park.
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| Khao Yai emblem | First Northern Pig tailed Macaques |
The macaques are actually everywhere and quite fearless jumping on cars and approaching people as we learn at our next stop - the ranger headquarters. Here we also observe for the first time the traditional Thai toilet with water basins from which you are supposed to pick up water with a pan and then throw in the toilet while picking water from a separate basin to wash yourself.
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| What a view | with a macaque in it |
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| Typical three-tiered restroom | Car is taken over |
One of the reasons we have chosen Khao Yai for our visit is that it is an Unesco World Heritage Site due to its biodiversity. It is also quite convenient of course and even more importantly it has hiking trails that you can use without guides which is quite a plus.
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| It is an Unesco World Heritage Site | You can see far in the distance |
In fact our next stop is at exactly one of these hiking trails - Nong Phak Chi Nature Trail. It has limited but more than enough this early in the day parking and a good information panel but then it takes a bit to pick the right trail through the jungle. It seems that it is most confusing at the beginning as afterwards the trail is mostly easy to follow with cement signs from time to time pointing out distance from the trailhead which is quite nice.
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| Nong Phak Chi Nature Trail start | Informative panel |
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| Very wild | Useful signs |
One of the attractions of the trail is that you can arguably see wild elephants along it but we are not that lucky, we see only dung and other signs but not an actual elephant. Still the trail is quite enjoyable and level and we decide to go the full length which at 1km is not that impressive but still it is 1 km through the jungle :).
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| Large tree | Elephant dung |
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| Really? Through here? | Looks better |
The informative signs can be quite interesting and the wildflowers are certainly a plus along the trail as we see flowers that we never saw before, some quite interesting and some quite showy as the Malabar Melastome.
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| Signs are interesting | Trail is very adventurous |
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| Mussaenda sanderiana | Malabar Melastome |
Tree wise the most impressive trees are the Weeping Figs with the extended root system looking like something taken directly from an Indiana Jones movie. And then suddenly we are out of the forest and into open space as we see the lake and the turning around point, an observation tower, in the distance.
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| Weeping Fig | Trees in the jungle |
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| Getting out in the open | Different landscape |
Of course distance can be difficult to judge especially in rougher terrain as the trail now descends mostly gently towards the lake. We pass next the elephant salt lick placed strategically in view of the observation tower and a bit further close to the lake we even see elephant footprints. Near the lake we enjoy the multitude of butterflies and flowers even though to our surprise there are no waterbirds at all on the lake and then after a short climb we arrive at the observation tower.
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| Elephant lick area | Crossing the creek |
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| Paris Peacock | Unidentifed butterfly/moth |
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| Lake view | Elephant stepped here |
The observation tower is bigger than we expected and well built however unfortunately besides some nice views there is nothing to see today from it - no elephants, no other mammals, not even a mallard. So after recuperating a bit on the benches it is time for the hike back through the forest to the car to continue onwards in the park.
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| Observation tower | View from tower |
Next stop is at the visitor center where we walk through the exhibits and buy some souvenirs from the gift shop while admiring the huge sambar deer outside who don't seem to mind (or care about) humans at all.
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| Visitor center | Inside the center |
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| Small Sambar deer... | ....compared to him |
It is also lunch time and we are quite famished after our hike so we buy something from the two food kiosks that are open (there are quite few people in general). We are not sure exactly what we buy however the food is good enough. We also buy some drinks and chips from a general store however we do not have time to enjoy the chips as they get stoled by a thieving macaque.
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| Lunch...not sure what | Some type of omelette |
Refueled we try a different, shorter Nature Trail, the Pha Diao Dai Nature Trail, a looping boardwalk that leads to an expansive overlook over the jungle. It also has multiple informational signs that allows us to identify some of the more common plants while actually being more challenging overall as it descends and climbs over multiple stairs compared to the previous trail which was more gentle.
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| Pha Diao Dai Nature Trail | Ouch - we will have to climb that back |
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| The trail... | ....feels like you are in a computer game |
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| Pandanus/screwpine | Overlook view |
As it is getting late we have only one more nature trail planned, the Kong Kaeo Nature Trail which is near the visitor center. It is again a short looping trail and it is even paved for a short distance. We are hoping to see one of the many waterfalls in the park along this way however unfortunately the waterfall is missing in action - literally. The viewpoints are blocked the river seems to be very quiet and we cannot hear anything like a waterfall in the distance, quite weird.
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| Kong Kaeo Nature Trail description | You have to cross bridges like this - twice |
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| Typical trees and plants | Some areas are quite impenetrable |
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| Supposedly this is a waterfall view :) | No waterfall here either |
We exit the park right at closing time and then have to decide where to eat dinner. In the end we decide to skip a restaurant for today and buy some food from a grocery store for a light dinner before falling asleep.
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| Our dinner | La piece de resistance :) |
Our second full day at the accomodation starts with the same type of breakfast a bit earlier today as we have a longer tour planned for today. We even get a few chicken watching us carefully as we finish eating and start on our way.
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| Another breakfast | Maybe the source of our eggs |
We have a two hour drive ahead of us so we decide to buy gas at a nearby gas station before starting on the long drive to the Khmer ruins. In this areas the road are much more empty than close to Bangkok and the drive is much more relaxing as long as you keep an eye out for stray cows and dogs running on the street.
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| New Shell station | Remnants of old |
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| Streets are emptier here | This is also more common |
Today we have two Khmer ruins planned and soon we arrive at the first one, Phanom Rung. We avoid the shops and only take a short look at the museum as we want to do the climb up to the top during the morning hours rather than later during the afternoon heat.
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| Souvenir stand area at Phanom Rung NP | Part of the newer temple |
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| Landscaping near visitor centre | Some information about the history of the park |
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| Skeleton found here | And some pottery |
Phanom Rung is considered to be the most impressive and significant of the Khmer temples that can be found in Thailand. It was constructed in Angkor style during the 10th until the 13th century as a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. Officially named Prasat Hin Phanom Rung it was built on top of an old volcano in Buriram province on the base of which another Khmer complex, Muang Tum was constructed around the same time which we intend to visit afterwards. So up the volcano it is to reach the temple on top.
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| Entrance to Phanom Rung | Climbing up the processional walkway |
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| First view of the main temple | Still a lot to go |
However before climbing to the top there is a structure along the way that we decide to investigate, a pavilion on the right side of the processional walkway thatwas built for the King to prepare himself for ceremonies in the temple.
We walk around admiring the interesting windows and the details on the walls while exploring all the different nooks and crannies as you can actually walk almost anywhere around the structure which is quite a surprise.
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| Pavilion used by the king to prepare for ceremonies | Inside the pavilion |
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| View from the main terrace | Typical window decoration |
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| Detail on the wall | Close up of preserved wall piece |
And then it is time to continue up the hill towards the main temple that we can see far in the distance. The walkway is not that long, only 160m however you also climb almost continuously during those meters. Luckily there is plenty to admire along the way including the two Naga bridges and a few small ponds.
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| Processional alley - impressive | Getting closer - step by step |
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| Guardian nagas | Close up of naga |
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| We have come a long way | Pools at the top |
Inside the temple complex we explore first the interior which is quite empty with just one statue here and there placed with an informative sign. It is quite cool however which makes the space quite popular for tourists. There is also a smell that we can't put our finger on - it seems like someone has used it as a toilet but maybe not? We will find the source of the smell by the end of the day however :).
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| View from the entrance | Entrance detail |
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| Inside the central temple | What is this? |
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| Courtyard | Window detail |
The best view of the complex is from the side especially in the early afternoon sun. The temples from here look almost untouched and you almost expect a guard to come out and tell you to move along and stop gawking.
We take in all the different details trying to decipher the stories the panels are trying to say (with the help of the signs of course) and then decide to continue towards the back of the complex using the foul smelling interior. And then we look up and see the source of the smell - what seems to be hundreds of bats are using the temple as a refuge - very cool!
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| View from the side - very decorated | Close up of decorations |
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| Top of the tower | Above the entrance |
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| Unexpected source of smell | Column detail |
The view from the back is quite impressive also and we take lots of photos while walking around the central temple to capture it from different angles before deciding to descend towards the exit.
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| View from back | You can see all the way through |
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| The view from here is the best | Nagas above the entrance |
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| Stone carving detail | Quite interesting |
Now we have time to visit the small museum where we can see a representation of how the complex looked during its heyday. We also buy some souvenirs and then stop to eat some lunch that we order with a bit of difficulty (even now we are not convinced we received what we wanted but it was good anyway:)). We also discover for the first time that some restaurants here are charging for the ice - quite a surprise.
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| Temple reconstruction | Inside the museum |
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| Choose your own beverage | Well deserved late lunch |
Our next stop is very close Muang Tum at the base of the hill. Muang Tum is a 1,000 years old Khmer temple complex built in Angkor style during a time when large parts of Thailand were controlled by the Khmer empire. It was created as a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva and abandoned after two or three centuries. And now we have trouble finding the entrance as the first two places we go to are locked and we start despairing that maybe it was closed completely. However third time is the charm and we are in.
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| Prasat Muang Tum "entrance" | On the way - impressive detail |
The temple is constructed symetrically using a rectangular plan and is surrounded by a laterite wall. The center of each side of the wall contains a gate, the Eastern one being the main entrance and here is where we enter.
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| Entrance to the interior courtyard | Above the entrance |
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| Same style of windows | Everything was carved it seems |
Once inside the complex you will find four ponds with steps leading to the bottom of the pond. The ponds are filled with beautiful colorful water lilies. Large five headed Naga snakes are placed at the corner of each pond.
It is quite beautiful and even more remarkable there are only a couple more people in the complex with us making for a very relaxing visit compared to Phanom Rung.
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| One of the four basins | Protected by nagas |
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| Lotus on the lake | Another entrance |
The stonework here is on par with what we have seen at the other temples with some well preserved high relief depictions of Shiva, Uma and other Hindu mythological figures above the doors to the inner sanctum.
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| View from inside of another of the four entrances | Close up of entrance |
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| Close up of detail | Cows were important even here it seems |
The inner sanctuary contains five towers made from sand stone built on top of a low platform with the central one, which was the tallest has collapsed.
We walk around the central sanctuary for some time exploring the different areas and walking wherever it is permitted for some great views of the small but beautiful complex. But as the sun starts to descend it is time for us to start on our way back to our accomodation.
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| In the middle | This is not right |
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| Must have been beautiful... | ....and more straight :) |
The road back in uneventful, we just have to watch to not hit any cows/goats/humans and so on straying on the main highway and we should be (and are in the end) just fine. Again we decide to eat some fast food from the nearby convenience store before packing (tomorrow we are going north) and going to sleep.
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| Returning we have to avoid the cows | Sunset on the road |
Today we start our way north towards Chiang Mai with two overnight stops along the way. The drive today is quite long so we decide to break it down with two stops one in the morning and one in the afternoon.
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| On the road again | Passing a huge Buddha statue |
Our first stop is at Wat Phra Phutthabat, one of the most important temples in Thailand. It is a highly revered temple and one of the only six temples of the highest grade of the first class Royal temples. the major reason is that a mondop on top of a small hill houses a footprint of the Buddha, that was discovered in the 17th century and we are certainly looking forward to seeing it. But first we have to find a parking space, pay the entrance fee and then we are in admiring the temple complex from the entrance.
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| Wat Phra Phutthabat - one of the oldest temples in Thailand | Many many bells to ring |
Trying to find a way to the major temple we pass the usual nagas - they were popular protectors in the time of Khmer and they are still popular now it seems. There is a small temple store that we enter and then it is time to take of our shoes as we approach the central temple.
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| Nagas are very popular | Saint with a money bo |
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| Smaller temple near main temple | View inside |
As it is relatively early in the morning during a workday there are few people here vs. the crowds to which all signs point (directional lanes to handle queues for example). It is quite simple to enter the temple and see the Buddha footprint which is the only place mobbed by other visitors. The footprint, which is covered in gold, is protected but not fully and you can lean over and take a look at it or throw money inside as many people seem to do. The only no-no seems to be to turn the soles toward the footprint, that will earn you a reprimand from the caretaker.
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| Main temple | Very ornate |
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| Detail | Buddha's footprint |
Afterwards we wander through the grounds and view all the different buildings on the grounds and the interesting landscaping. From one direction we even notice that the temple is built like a castle which leads us to wonder if this is for practical reasons to protect against invaders or just aesthetical.
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| View of the temple complex | Copy of the footprint |
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| Main temple from a distance | Close up of temple |
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| This area looks like a castle | Cute landscaping |
Before leaving we have time to visit the shopping alley and buy some souvenirs and some cold drinks and snacks (like small local bananas). And then it is time to leave as we have to arrive at our next destination well before 5PM when it closes so we have time to visit.
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| Shopping alley near temple | We bought some small bananas in the end |
Our second and final stop is at Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park an Unesco Heritage Site which is much less visted than its more famous neighbor Sukhothai. Kamphaeng Phet, which means Diamond Wall, was a key defensive stronghold for the Sukhothai kingdom from the 13th to 15th centuries and remained relevant when it came under the sway of Ayutthaya. “A battlefield on many occasions” the city was flattened during the Burma-Siam war of the 1760s. Pieces of original earthen walls still stand around the old city as testaments to its medieval military might.
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| Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park visitor center | Scale model of the area |
First we stop right next to the visitor center at a ruin that seems quite impressive - we learn that it is the former senior monks home. We explore the area and discover the huge former pond (we thought it looked like a swimming pool first) and the base of what must have been quite an impressive chedi. After finishing our exploration we return to the car to continue to the next temple - distances are not insignificant and we have about one hour only to visit the complex.
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| Wat Awat Yai - senior monks home | In the courtyard |
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| Base of the chedi | Large pond |
The next temple is probably the most famous one in this area of the park, called Wat Chang Rop (which translates to “temple surrounded by elephants”) for obvious reasons. The temple was founded in the 15th or 16th century. We wander around and even on top which to our surprise is permitted because only the foundation of the chedi is left.
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| Wat Chang Rop - elephant temple | Side view |
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| Many elephants are destroyed | Nothing on top |
It must have been quite an impressive sight way back with the chedi standing on a square base surrounded by 68 elephant statues protruding out of the structure that seemed to carry the chedi on their backs. While most of the laterite stuccoed elephant sculptures are badly damaged, the fine decorations still show on some of them. The space between the elephants were adorned with reliefs of floral designs, of which nothing is left.
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| Side with well preserved elephants | Close up of elephants |
The next temple where we stop is Wat Singh, an ancient temple founded in the 15th or 16th century. The building was initially constructed as a viharn, an assembly hall. but was later turned into an ubosot, the hall where monks get ordained. On the base surrounding the structure are eight sema stones, boundary markers that mark the sacred area of the ubosot. The major attractions here are the two Buddha images one larger and restored and one more eroded hiding at the base of the chedi.
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| Wat Singh in the distance | Getting closer |
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| View from front | View from back |
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| Another Buddha at Wat Singh | Most are missing |
Nearby is another major attraction Wat Phra Si Iriyabot or the “temple of the four postures of the Buddha”. A niche in each side contained a large stuccoed image of the Buddha. Each of the Sukhothai style images is in a different posture, namely walking, standing, sitting and reclining. The 9 meter high standing Buddha (West) is the only one in good condition while the outline of the walking Buddha (East) is still visible with little remaining of the other two.
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| Wat Phra Si Iriyabot | Best preserved standing Buddha image here |
As the temples are in the middle of the forest we have an opportunity to also watch for wildlife and we see a few interesting birds including the beautiful and weird Greater Racket tailed Drongo.
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| Indian Roller | Greater Racket tailed Drongo |
Our last stop is at Wat Phra Non founded during the same period as the other temples. It is one of the better preserved temples and we walk through the ruins trying to imagine how it must have looked, where the monks slept, where they prayed and where the Buddha statues were. It is quite enjoyable and quiet with few people in this specific area.
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| Wat Phra Non in the distance | Inside the ruins |
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| Must have been a large temple | Chedi of the temple |
However with closing time approaching we have to leave for the one hour drive to our accomodation to Sukhothai. The roads are more country roads where we have to keep an eye open for lifestock, humans and cars/bicycles with no lights. Luckily we arrive safely at the hotel and after finding a parking spot we take in the room - supposedly it is good for wildlife but being dark outside there is nothing we can see:). Actually there is something - fireflies that do their best to enter our room and ultimately fail.
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| Room at Sukhothai | Typical bathroom |
Today we decide to eat at the restaurant which while outside to our surprise asks us to take of our shoes which is a bit unexpected (first and only restaurant to require that in Thailand). However the food is relatively good even though it is more spicy than we expected and full we return to our room to recuperate after the long drive.
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| Thai curry soup | Our dinner |
In the morning we have some time to enjoy our room and the nice view over a nearby marsh. The number of birds that we see is quite surprising, in about 20 minutes we see about four species that we have never seen before (not that surprising since it is our first visit to Thailand but still it is quite nice).
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| Black winged kite | Buff vented Bulbul |
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| Greater Coucal | White breasted waterhen |
It is time to walk to breakfast however as we have a long and busy day planned. We choose a mix of traditional and western breakfast and while not exceptional it is good enough to fill us up for the day:).
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| Bungalows from outside | Restaurant area |
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| More Western breakfast | And more Eastern :) |
Our first stop of the day is very close to the hotel, a 10 minute drive. It is the Unesco World Heritage Site of Sukhothai, the capital of the first unified Kingdom of Siam founded in 1238. The kingdom flourished for 200 years, during which its capital at Old Sukothai was a highly influential political and religious center. Our first stop is Wat Mahathat located in the central zone of the old walled town. It was the largest and most important temple of the empire and even now it is still surrounded by a moat so it takes a bit to find the entrance.
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| Sukhothai - Wat Mahathat in the distance | Still have to cross the moat |
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| On the right side of the moat | Buddha statues are everywhere |
We continue into the middle of the temple - it is one of the best preserved we have seen with decorations and multiple Buddhas, quite interestng. Unfortunately it is also quite popular with lots of tours including bike tours which forces us to be quite careful as we enjoy the site.
The temple is surrounded by a moat and brick walls containing a great number of monuments including the main lotus bud chedi, numerous more chedis in several styles, viharns, an ubosot and three mondops enshrining large images of the Buddha and we take our time exploring them looking at all the details.
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| Close up of statue | Base of statue is also decorated |
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| Main temple | Close up of detail |
We are quite impressed by the large Buddha statues even though it takes some time to be able to take a photo of them without someone else in front of it as they are very popular.
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| Huge standing Buddha | Temple detail |
From Wat Mahathat we continue towards the next major temple passing Wat Chana Songkhram, a smaller one, on the way. While smaller it is by no means less interesting with the huge chedi being visible from a distance from most of the Sukhothai area.
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| Walking towards Wat Chana Songkhram | Chedi at Wat Chana Songkhram |
We continue following the canals/moats trying to find a way to the next temple we want to reach, Wat Sa Sri. The canals here look quite beautiful with water lilies covering them and birds resting on the shore and we also enjoy the shade from the trees along the trail as it is getting hot.
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| Moats/canals are everywhere | Chinese pond-heron |
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| Lotuses on the canal | Beautiful Red Water Lily |
We also pass the more modern King Ramkamhaeng Monument erected in 1971. The reason that the King deserves a monument in the middle of the historic area is that he is widely regarded as the greatest Sukhothai ruler. He is credited with 'inventing' the Thai alphabet, by adapting a Khmer script that was derived from the Indian Devanagari written language. During his reign, the territory under his rule extended well down the Malay peninsula, from eastern Burma to much of Laos.
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| King Ramkamhaeng Monument | Monument detail |
And then we arrive at Wat Sa Sri who to our dismay is under restoration, not the temple but the surrounding pond. The pond is supposed to be filled with lotus flowers and with the temple sitting on an island in the middle it is supposed to be the most attractive of the monuments of the Sukhothai Historical Park - this is certainly not the case today. Still the ruins themselves are interesting with the main bell shaped chedi being in great condition and we go around the temple (no climbing is permitted here) before leaving the island and continuing towards the last temple that we want to see.
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| Wat Sa Sri - under restoration | Impressive from close by |
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| Prayer hall ruin | Photo from the side |
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| Ground cover | Everywhere we look - ruins |
The last temple that we are going to visit is Wat Si Sawai which to us is actually the most impressive. The style is quite different than the other ones even looking a bit Mayan to us. It is one of the oldest temples in Sukhothai and is believed to have been founded towards the end of the 12th century or early 13th century before the founding of the Sukhothai Kingdom.
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| Wat Si Sawai from a distance | Closer view |
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| View from the entrance | Quite impressive - Khmer styled |
The most striking feature of the temple are the three well preserved Khmer corncob shaped prangs. The central tower measures about 15 meters tall, the two towers flanking it are a few meters smaller. The prangs covered with white stucco are set on a low base surrounded by a gallery. Towards the end of the 12th century or early 13th century the Khmer started construction of the prangs, but left them unfinished. Centuries later during the Ayutthaya era in the 15th century they were finished in the Lopburi style. You can walk around and even enter a few small empty rooms beneath the towers.
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| Tower details | One of nagas |
From Wat Si Sawai we return towards the car but before leaving we eat a quick lunch at a roadside restaurant and then we are on our way.Now it is time to drive through the mountains on secondary roads, a very scenic drive through rice fields filled from time to time with Asian Openbills and some very nice scenery and villages seemingly ripped from turn of the (20th) century books.
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| Entering the mountain area | Stop signs look similar at least |
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| Rice fields | Lots of Asian Openbills |
Late afternoon we arrive at our next stop Wat Phra That, another major temple, however first we have to find a parking spot as it is much busier than we expected with tour buses and other cars taking most of the available parking.
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| Wat Phra That shopping area | You could use these to get to the temple |
We have only about one hour to visit the complex but even so we have to stop quite often even outside to take photos of the impressive temple. The reason is that it looks more like a fortress than a temple as is a fortified temple or wiang; it was built on top of an earth mound and is surrounded by high brick walls and is one of the best examples of Lanna style architecture in Thailand. The temple was founded in the 13th century was occupied in the 18th century by invading Burmese before being later freed by a group of 300 local people.
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| Wat Phra That from a distance | Majestic entrance |
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| Defender of the entrance | The entrance |
After entering we notice that the viharns are open on all sides which we learn is typical of the early Lanna style and is unusual versus what we seen at the other temples. It is also one of the most popular which is surprising as it is out of the way as far as we can tell. The walls are covered with murals some of the quite faded but hinting at the grandeur of the temple in its heyday.
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| Very ornate main hall | Lots and lots of people are visiting |
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| Here he comes the mighty Panda...or something | Buddha statues |
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| Old paintings inside | Most wooden areas are painted |
We walk around the structures trying to imitate what the other visitors are doing including walking around central chedi (but not for three times as it seems you are supposed to do).
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| Main altar | Quite beautiful |
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| Buddha footprint we guess | Money cows |
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| Walking around a few times - part of the ritual | You can light candles |
As we explore we find a different exit which seems to lead into a separate area of the temple with small shrines and buddhas seemingly everywhere.
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| Old wooden relic holders | Small altars in the courtyard |
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| They are everywhere | Mostly with multiple Buddha statues |
In this new area we finally find one of the things we were looking for, the temple museum. There are still 15 minutes till closing so we are let in but we have to move fast as we examine the different artifacts collected in the small museum. And then we run back so we can actually enter the main temple before closing so we can exit through the main gate, otherwise we have no idea how to get back to the car. After being outside safely we take a few more photos of the huge entrance just as it closes in front of us and then off we go.
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| Museum entrance | Aphorisms are placed liberally |
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| Exiting right before closing | Detail on the main door |
Our accomodation for the night is close by but we still do not arrive before sunset. It is a small guesthouse that we know is right behind a row of houses but we simply cannot find any entrance due to a nightmarket so we turn around about three times in front of the police station (the main road is divided so it is difficult to turn around) before finally finding a side street that leads to another side street that leads to the accomodation. After a fast dinner from our provisions we are ready to go to sleep as the next day we have a lot of hiking planned in the Thai mountains.
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| Room in Hot | Typical bath |
In the morning we finally can see our surroundings - the accomodation is facing some nice rice fields with the source of some weird sounds being identified as a cow on a nearby pasture. We descend to the breakfast area and choose the Northern Thai breakfast which is quite plentiful and interesting.
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| View of the rice fields from room | And a cow |
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| Organic vegetable garden | And the outcome - with some additions:) |
After breakfast we explore the rice fields on the rickety path entering the fields before returning to the car and entering the mountains.
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| Going out in the rice fields | Looking back at the hotel |
Our first stop is at Ob Luang NP which is close to Hot where we spent the night. The National Park is one of the few in Thailand where we can hike around freely on the trails which is the major attraction for us. It is famous because of the canyon views and the different sights of early human activity that can be seen from the trail. At the visitor center we find out that there are no maps of the trail but that it is easy to follow and it looks that way as we start on a paved trail that soon gives way to stairs climbing towards a scenic bridge over the canyon.
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| Ob Luang National Park Visitor Center | Starting on trail - looks easy enough |
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| First glimpse of the gorge and famous bridge | Getting closer |
There is almost no one else this morning on the trail so we take it slowly and enjoy the views as we reach and cross the bridge to arrive at the loop trail on the other side.
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| Up we go | Well maintained |
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| View from bridge | This is where we are coming from |
From the bridge the trail climbs steeply and it becomes less distinct as it is covered by leaves however after a while it levels up and we arrive at the place where they excavated an ancient tomb, there is nothing left of course except a hole in the ground. We follow signs for a side trip to an overlook however the climb becomes almost technical and only one of us makes it to what we assume is the overlook (there is no sign but there is a view :)).
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| Going up - who can resist that many signs pointing one way? | Climb can be difficult |
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| Prehistoric grave | Viewpoint |
Next major stop on the trail is a rock shelter with some rock art however it is not that impressive vs. what we have seen before - it is not the best panel site in Thailand though and we are happy to see at least some rock art that easily.
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| Rock art shelter | Not a lot left |
Next as we walk through the forest we are confronted with an unexpected sight, a plant so weird that we cannot categorize it even when we see it. It seems taken from a scifi movie and we try to take as many photos as we can - we found them only here and no where else.
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| Amorphophallus paeoniifolius | Looks quite special |
We continue on the trail reaching a much easier to access viewpoint before starting the descent back towards the river and bridge.
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| Mineral Lick | Trail can be difficult to follow |
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| Another overlook view | Really? |
The descent can be quite scary with the trail almost disappearing a few times and the chains that are supposed to help missing in action. But luckily it is a short one and then the trail levels out as it continues along the ridge to the bridge with some nice views
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| Will we survive this? | Still a long way down |
At the bridge we stop for a few photos before returning back to the visitor center and the car. Overall we quite enjoyed the trail with no one else seemingly trying the longer loop trail post the bridge.
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| Rapids below | The bridge |
From here we are using the backroads towards Doi Inthanon - it is a scenic drive punctuated by the occasional huge accident like the overturned truck and lots and lots of curves as we climb up towards the the National Park.
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| On the way to Doi Inthanon | Can we make it past? Yes |
We do not even know where we enter the national park - this entrance is not well marked and we soon are at the twin chedis built to honor the King and Queen where even parking is very difficult to find due to the number of tourists - so different from Ob Luang which was very peaceful. Doi Inthanon however is closer to Chiang Mai and is much more touristed and also has the highest peak in Thailand and a few waterfalls but few interesting trails where you can actually walk without guides.
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| We did find a parking spot here! | Where should we go first? |
The chedis are on two separate hills that can be accessed using escalator stairs and for no particular reason we chose to go to the right one first. You can enter the chedis and look at the murals however there is no descriptive information regarding what you are seeing.
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| Going up | View of the other chedi |
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| Inside the chedi | Artwork around the chedi |
Maybe because of that most tourists actually descend in the garden behind the chedi which is nicely landscaped with the bridge being an attraction spot for photos.
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| Quite expressive | Garden view |
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| Very popular bridge | Very nicely landscaped |
The escalator stairs to the second chedi are not working so we climb unaided to the top and take in the sights and the murals before continuing on the way.
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| Not working | Made it to the other side |
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| Inside the chedi | Artwork surrounding the chedi |
From the chedis we continue towards the top of the mountain where we plan to attempt the only trail that we know about that enters the forest and can be attempted without a guid, Angkha Nature Trail.
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| Angkha Nature Trail Overview | Start of loop trail |
The trail passes through a combination of highland peat swamp and hill evergreen forest featuring a special eco-system found nowhere else. The whole loop trail follows a 400-m long boardwalk and we are quite excited to find multiple rhododendron and orchids along the way.
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| Rhododendron veitchianum | Coelogyne nitida |
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| Wow - spectacular | Rhododendron arboreum ssp. delavayi |
The boardwalk passes over a few creeks and we try to spot birds or animals along the way but it is almost impossible in the greenery that surrounds us.
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| Elevated boardwalk | Crossing a river |
From the trail we go to eat a few snacks at the cafe and then we go to the top of Thailand, the highest peak in this mountain range and Thailand. We even learn that we are really in the Himalayas, the southernmost part but still it is quite a surprise for us. And then it is time to start our descent towards Chiang Mai while stopping for a few waterfalls along the way.
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| Lunch cafe | Lots of flowers |
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| At the top of Thailand (or really close by) | Going down to the car |
As the park is closing soon we decide to stop only at two of the waterfalls. The first one is Sirithan Waterfall accessed by descending about 100 stairs but certainly worth it. And then we barely make it to the viewpoint for Wachirathan waterfall which luckily can be seen almost from the carpart as we arrive in the parking area 2 minutes before closing.
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| Going down to Sirithan Waterfall | Impressive waterfall |
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| Wachirathan waterfall - just in time | Close up of waterfall |
Right after the park exit is another waterfall that we initially planned to visit, Mae Klang, however everything is deserted when we pull into the parking lot. The entrance looks still open but because they want an additional entrance fee we decide not to enter this time. Instead we buy some refreshments from the nearby shopping area before continuing to Chiang Mai.
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| Exiting the park | Fruit stand at the entrance |
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| Near the parking area for Mae Klang waterfall | Most stores are closed |
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| River market | Waterfall is further upstream |
As we approach Chiang Mai the traffic becomes worse and worse until we move almost bumper to bumper for about one hour until we reach the inner moat and former city walls where our accomodation is. Here we have chosen an old Thai Villa which is quite impressive looking, with a sitting room and kitchen supplied with free coke and water downstairs and the sleeping area upstairs. The only knock against it is that the walls are not that soundproof so we can hear the neighbors easily.
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| Main room at villa in Chiang Mai | Lots of free goodies |
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| Should we sleep here? | This is better! |
Before going to sleep we have to eat something so we use the hosts recommendation and walk on the ring road until we find a place that looks popular and order whatever we think seems good - it is quite an experience to sit outdoors and watch the people come in and leave and the food is quite good and cheap so we leave quite satisfied to retire for the day.
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| Street food place in Thailand | Our dinner |
At the villa we can choose between three types of breakfast, Thai or two western ones. Today we have decided to eat Thai which is good even though a bit too spicy for early in the morning.
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| Breakfast table | Thai breakfsat |
Leaving the villa we start to wander through the old city area looking for the major temples. Most of them are relatively close by but it takes a bit to get there as we take in the old houses and small temples that we pass on the way.
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| Street in front of the villa | Old temple door |
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| Chiang Mai wall | Lots of tuk tuks |
Chiang Mai, the former capital of the kingdom of Lanna that was incorporated in the 19th century in the Thai kingdom, is famous for its many temples and relatively well preserved downtown area as well as the Night Market. Our first stop is Wat Phra Singh constructed in the 14th century which houses an important Buddha statue and is quite spread out over almost a city block. From 1578 to 1774 the Burmese ruled Lanna and in this period the temple was abandoned and came under serious disrepair being restored only after 1782.
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| Wat Phra Singh Temple | Front of temple |
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| Everyone has to leave their shoes at the door (as usual) | Large Buddha |
In the central building, Wihan Luang, the large golden Buddha is drawing your eyes but we are more impressed with the Nagas at the entrance which are bejeweled and quite interesting.
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| Wax statues are quite common | Close view of the Buddha |
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| Protective Naga | Temple decorations |
The temple is still an active temple as evidenced by the number of monks wandering about but we are surprised when we pass the lunch area - it seems that there might even be a monk school somewhere on the grounds.
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| Monks eating | Not sure if this is official policy or recommendation |
There are multiple buildings in the temple and as usual the biggest ones are not necessarily holding the best attractions. What surprises us as we continue our visit is the number of wax representations of famous holy men - we haven't seen this practice at the previous temples we visited.
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| Another building in the complex | Entrance to a subtemple |
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| We thought they were real | No mistake here |
One of the last temples we enter is probably the most famous on the grounds, Wihan Lai Kham. It was built in 1345 to house the Phra Buddha Singh statue and it is a prime example of classical Lanna architecture with the murals being also highly remarkable.And of course here you can see the famous Buddha statue whose origins are unknown but according to legend is based on a famous statue in India now lost.
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| More modern part | And an older temple, Wihan Lai Kham |
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| Inside the temple | Some older murals on the wall |
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| Famous Buddha in the background | Another representation of a Buddha footprint |
Before leaving we decide to buy some interesting souvenirs we see sold in the courtyard - animals made of rope - which are quite reasonable priced. Also some ice cream doesn't hurt in the midday heat :).
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| View from the side | Rope figurines for sale |
Next temple is an unexpected one - we were looking for a different one and entered the wrong temple. It was a good decision though as Wat Si Koet is much more quaint than the other temples in the area even though it is an old temple built in 1638. In fact we are the only people inside to admire the beautiful wooden roof and walls all painted in red and decorated with gold motifs.
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| Inside Wat Si Koet | Naga protector |
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| Painted roof | Nice detail |
We continue then to the temple we wanted to reach, Wat Phan Tao, one of the oldest temples in Chiang Mai built towards the end of the 14th century. The viharn/major building however was originally a throne hall for one of Chiang Mai's kings built in 1846. It is one of the few remaining all-wooden structures of its sort in Chiang Mai and it is quite impressive to visit.
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| Wat Phan Tao - wooden temple | Golden Buddha |
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| Row of wooden benches | Window with the Khmer motiv |
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| Flowers for sale | Detail on the entrance door |
Right next to Wat Phan Tao is another major temples in Chiang Mai, Wat Chedi Luang. Here you have to pay an entrance fee to enter the temple if you are a foreigner but this is why we are here, to see as many temples as possible :), so we decide to enter it.
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| Directing you so you pay more | Defender enforcing the paywall :) |
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| Entering Wat Chedi Luang | Elephants at base of the fountain |
To our surprise the first building we see cannot be entered by women - we learn that inside is the city pillar and if a woman would see it the whole city would be destroyed or something like that.
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| Women cannot enter this temple | Chiang Mai City Pillar |
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| Roof is ornate | Lots of paintings |
Next we enter the main temple which is as opulous as we expected with quite a few visitors praying the huge Buddha statues inside. It is also quite a huge hall and everything seems to glitter and covered in gold and gemstones (or imitations thereof).
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| Main temple | Usual naga |
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| This is a huge hall | With multiple statues |
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| View from the side | Quite a long hall |
As we wonder around we discover in the back of the main temple a huge chedi and no matter how much we search we cannot find any information on site about it - in the end the internet comes to our help and we find out that this is the real Chedi Luang that was destroyed in an earthquake in the 16th century and restored partway only recently. It is quite an impressive sight and we walk around it to capture it from all different directions.
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| Wat Chedi Luang - the real one :) | Was damaged in an earthquake and restored in 1990 |
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| View from another side | With buddha in front |
Surrounding it are a few smaller temples however they seem to hold some attractions too especially a huge reclining Buddha.
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| Side temple with wax priest | Large reclining Buddha |
Before leaving we also visit the temple museum which houses old manuscripts and relic holders but is quite small overall even though it spreads over two floors.
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| Temple museum | Inside the museum |
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| Old relic holders | Detail on a cabinet |
Afterwards it is time to find something to eat. However as we cannot decide and cannot really find that many interesting restaurants we continue to sightsee along the way passing through the central downtown area with multiple museums housed in impressive buildings anchoring the central plaza.
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| Three Kings Monument and the Historical Center | Lanna Folklife Museum |
The last temple that we wanted to visit is Wat Chiang Man, built in 1297 as the first temple of Chiang Mai. As it is a bit out of the way there are fewer tourists but the temple is quite impressive with the elephant chedi being quite interesting.
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| Wat Chiang Man | Elephant chedi in background |
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| Close up of temple | Very decorated inside |
We enter all the buildings being especially impressed by the murals even though of course we cannot follow the story. It also seems that red and gold is a quite popular color palette for Northern Thai temples as this is the third temple today utilizing this mix when decorating the interior of the temple.
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| Retouched murals | Some are quite interesting |
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| Another temple on the grounds | Gold on red motifs |
We are still quite hungry but not enough to try some durian especially as our villa has a sign warning specifically against bringing durians back into the accomodation.
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| Durian for sale - villa specifically prohibits it | Stupa in the middle of the city |
Finally we find something open and that looks good - and it is. The restaurant we have found is specialized in Northern Thai cuisine and we take the riskiest sounding items we find but while they are quite good and have some interesting taste and texture they do not look that special.
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| Well deserved lunch | Local specialty |
Quite full now we decide to walk back to the hotel following the moat. The moat itself has two roads one on each side each going in a different direction with the crossovers happening where the old city gates were standing (or are still standing from time to time).
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| Walking around the moat | Former city gate |
On the way we decide to pass through the only park in the historical area, which is very popular with the locals. And to our surprise doesn't have an exit on the other side of the park so we have to backtrack through the nicely landscaped park to another entrance so we can exit towards our villa.
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| Nong Buak Hard Public Park | King photos are everywhere |
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| Lots of pigeons | White pigeon in the park |
After a few hours of rest we are ready to walk to the Night market and buy some souvenirs - this is our last night in Thailand so we need to finish our shopping. There is relatively little craft wise but because it is so large we find enough things to buy that we are satisfied - however we still have one more thing planned.
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| Night market | Walking on the streets |
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| Lots of clothing for sale | And scarves |
Specifically we are looking for the food area where supposedly there are weird things for sale (think scorpions and the like). However the only thing we find is something that is selling chinese food, hamburgers and the like and mango sticky rice. So we decide to try at least some mango stricky rice and then refreshed we are ready to return to the villa. However because it is late and we want to try it out we decide to take a tuk tuk - it is an interesting ride and soon we are back at our villa for the last night in Thailand.
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| Night market food hall | Mango sticky rice |
In the morning we have ordered a western breakfast for a change and after making short work of it we start packing and just enjoying the villa for a few hours before we have to leave.
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| Last day breakfast | American one today |
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| Bed in the villa | Fountain outside |
We find a gas station close to the airport after navigating the one way ring roads and then it is off to drop the car - if we could just find the place. After looping through the airport multiple times we decide to give up and ask a guard how to find the rental car area - it is actually in a separate entrance with no sign, quite annoying.
The flight to Guangzhou is uneventful and we explore the airport during our three hour layover being quite impressed at how modern it looks. Also the free hot water dispenser is something new and interesting. And then it is time for the long flight back to Los Angeles and Phoenix where we arrive quite tired but very satisfied with our trip (excluding the start of course).
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| Guangzhou airport | Hot water dispenser |
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| Airline food | Some burgers also in the airport |
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