Gila NM - May 2015






This Memorial Day we decide to do a trip we wanted to do for some time to Gila National Monument. We tried to come here for some time but every time something happened - there was a flood there was a fire and so on - so we are a bit apprehensive when we start on our trip. We cannot book a campsite and they are quite limited near the National Monument but we really hope we can find a place. The first part of the trip to Silver City is uneventful but from there the road becomes curve after curve and ite becomes very narrow but we go slowly and after a couple hours we arrive at the campgrounds near the National Monument. The first campground is full but in the second one we find a great spot with a beautiful view which is even relatively secluded. It is basically camping heaven.

Camping spot viewSitting at the edge

As it is already late we decide to not leave the campground anymore but to hike to the river below the cliff where our campspot is and just wander next to it. It is a very quiet and quite enjoyable spot and we sit next to the river for some time watching it flow.

Near the Gila RiverGood place for a dip in the water
Surrounding cliffs"Beach" stones

The water is surprinsingly clear and there are even some water lilies growing in the shallows. Birds are also coming to the water or flying above it and we enjoy the serenity till the sunset when we return to the car eat dinner and go to sleep.

Water plantsClose up of flower
Robin enjoying a drinkSurveying the area




Today is the day of our major hike in the Gila Wilderness, we plan to go on a loop starting at the end of the road using the West Fork Trail and then climb the ridge between the West Fork and Middle Fork using the Zig Zag (28) and Meadows (164) trails and return to the TJ Corral Trailhead using the Little Bear Canyon trail (729) and then one more mile on the road back to the parking lot a 14 mile hike. The start of the trail is quite nice with the trail passing through riparian areas and a short portion of the National Monument.

Start of the trailEntering Gila NM
Trail through riparian areaFlood plain 

Soon we reach the first of many water crossings and on the other side we search and find the historic grave of a person who was waylaid and killed in the area that was described in our guide.

Grave on the wayA whole story on the gravestone
Ant hill near the trailLizard enjoying the sun

The crossings are soon becoming quite often and we lose track of them as we have to chang in our water shoes then hiking shoes then water shoes and so on. Even after we arrive at the point where we have to take the trail up towards the ridge we continue a bit more near the river trying to find a small Anasazi ruin that is supposed to be in the area and we cross the river multiple times trying to find it but no luck. In the end we give up and start our climb up the ridge.

We have to cross the river multiple timesWe crossed the river here
And hereYou can see the trail on the other side
West Fork of Gila River - very clear waterSmall fish in the river

There are lots of flowers and birds in the riparian area but also we can see some as we continue our climb towards the ridge which makes for some good breathing breaks as we try to take a photo of them.

Flowering aloeBeautiful flower
Interesting flower complexFlowering cactus
Bird in the riverine areaAnother bird

The views are also starting to become more impressive as we can see the West Fork Canyon from higher and higher up until we reach the ridge and the intersection with the Meadows trail.

Already quite highSome nice views
Trail through the highlandsOn top of the mountains

The Meadows trail is less defined than we expected with some portions being difficult to follow and others needing repair. Still the views continue to be impressive as we can see both the West and Middle Fork canyons intermittently depending on which side of the ridge the trail is following. In the end we descend a bit haphazardly to the Little Bear canyon trail which is well defined and easy to follow towards the paved road that goes through Gila NM.

Side canyonView in the distance
Rolling hillsTrees as far as the eye can see

Before returning to the car even though we are quite tired we cannot resist stopping to see the petroglyphs on the way and even an outline of an Anasazi ruin that was removed when building the road. The petroglyphs are interesting even though they are limited to a couple of panels and also we can rest a bit while we examine them which is good for our tired legs.

Outline of an Anasazi ruinPetroglyph near paved road
This looks quite interestingAnother good petroglyph

We notice that a trail goes up for 0.1 mi to a Anasazi building and we decide why not? We somehow manage to get to the building which is quite small but a fitting end of the day. After this we limp back to the car and then to our tent which nearly flew away (luckily it was weighted by stones). After a quick dinner we fall asleep as tomorrow we have to finish what we intended to see and also to return to Phoenix.

Small Anasazi ruinClose up of ruin




Today is our last morning in our great campsite. We enjoy the view while we eat breakfast and are surprised to even see ground squirrels near the water enjoying the morning.

Morning view from campsiteAnother view
What is down on the river bank?Marmot or squirrel?

Before we leave we still plan to do a few things in the area - the first thing is to visit the Gila National Monument cliff dwellings that is the major attraction here. Here is the only place where we pay an entrance fee for the hike to the ruins. It starts with a crossing in style (on a bridge basically) of the river which is good after all the water crossings we did the day before.

Gila NM Ranger StationCrossing the West Fork in style
Gila River view from the bridgeLooking the other way

The trail to the ruins starts easy near a small creek but then it becomes a bit steeperas we climb towards the cliff dwelling. We stop a few times to catch our breath and also to enjoy the many flowers along the trail.

Trail starts easyBut there are stairs soon enough
Bridge over the small creekTrail can look quite easy
Flowers on the side of the trailBeautiful flower

After about 1/2 mi hike we catch the first glimpse of the ruin and soon it is clearly visible and looks quite impressive.

Lizard sunning itselfFirst view of the cliffs
Close up of cliffsAnd here are the ruins

We walk the last stretch fast and we arrive at the ruins which have a ranger guarding them and quite a few tourists exploring them. While they are relatively small they look quite impressive from the outside and you can even walk on a short loop walk through them which we always like.

We are at the ruinsLooks well preserved
Inside the ruinsWell preserved tower

We enter the ruins and wander around climbing stairs and exploring the different nooks and crannies.

Stairway to Heaven - more or lessLots of stairs inside the ruin
Not a lot of roomsBut still impressive

There are many interesting spots - fireplaces, burn marks, indentations on the ground where the pots were sitting and we explore them as much as we can - most rooms cannot be entered and can be viewed only from outside.

Fireplace in a roomSooth on the overhang
Excavated featuresPots were sitting here

In one room there is even a basket with a lot of cornknobs and on a few walls there are a few pictographs - not many but very visible if you look in the right direction.

Basket and cornknobsFull basket
There are some pictographsBut not many

The views from the ruin are beautiful with a nice canyon right outside in front. In fact it is the canyon near the creek that we climbed through towards the ruin.

View from ruinQuite impressive

But soon it is time to leave and the exit from the loop is using a long stair which is quite exciting to descend (you can return on the same path that you came from as many people actually do). Continuing on the main loop we pass near a few more inaccesible areas of the ruin which look very intimidating from below and then we start the descent.

Stairs to room overlookExit from ruins
Last view - like a castleSome parts cannot be entered

The descent takes a different route along the cliff face and soon we are at the bottom crossing the small creek before we cross the West Fork on the main bridge and return to the parking lot.

Going down to the bridgeSmaller bridge over smaller creek

Next we stop at the Visitor Center to take a look at the exhibits about the Anasazi people living in the area. The exhibit is relatively small but informative and interestingly we find a plaque outside that shows that Geronimo, the well known Apache warrior, was born around here - we were not aware of this.

Visitor CenterGeronimo was here
Exhibit in visitor centerMatate
Food "variety"One of the pots

Last hike for today is up the Middle Fork of the Gila River for about 1 mile to the Lightweather Hot Springs. From the start we have to cross the Middle Fork of the Gila River but else the trail is quite easy afterwards as it parallels the river for some time.

Trail to the Middle Fork of Gila RiverBeautiful yellow bird
Do we really have to cross again?Of course

The walk is quite spectacular with no one else around and we stop multiple times just to enjoy the views, the rushing water and the wild nature.

Trail on the other sideVery wild
Floods are common hereQuiet today

Soon we arrive at the hot spring which is very hot at the source (about 130F) but then the water is mixed in multiple pools for soaking with the cold river water and you can choose then one best suited for your tastes. We enjoy the warm water for some time before returning to the car and starting back towards Phoenix.

Lightfeather Hot SpringsIf you enter here you are boiled
Cooler poolPools are fun to sit into

On the way we stop at a viewpoint of the valley from the narrow road back to Silver City. The views are expansive as you can see across the wilderness far into the distance.

View from highwayReal wilderness

The last tourist stop we do is in Pinos Altos, an old ghost town along the way. While now it is almost a ghost town it had previously both an Opera House and multiple saloons and it looks it was a major town in the area. We take a few pictures and then we continue on towards Phoenix with almost no more breaks as we want to arrive at a reasonable hour due to work the next day.

Pinos Altos old townEven an opera house




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