We have planned a hike down Grand Canyon for quite some time but we never had time or the weather was bad or something else happened and we never made it. This time we booked a nice historic National Forest cabin near the canyon rim and hope that everything will go smoothly. It doesn't. It is the coldest April ever and as we drive there we are seriously wondering if we are even able to make it to the cabin as the unexpected blizzard covers everything with snow. Somehow we make it but of course it is quite cold inside and it is late evening so we are happy that our sleeping bags are rated to 20 F and hope that this is true as we make some warm food and tea on the stove before going to sleep.
In the morning besides the snow it looks like a great day - the sun is shining, the cold is still biting but overall it looks much better than the day before. We have time to explore the cabin and the surroundings including the quite far away restroom (that we had to visit at night and it was no fun). Still it is clean and the water is flowing and that is all you can ask.
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The approach to Hull Cabin | Unexpected snow |
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Hull Cabin | Ours as far as the eye can see (at least for 2 nights:)) |
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Restroom and shower | Very cozy (and cold) inside |
In the morning we have time to examine the cabin in sunlight as the gaslights that we used in the evening were giving little light. The historic cabin in which we are staying has three rooms, a living room, a kitchen and a bedroom all of them appointed with enough furniture to be used nicely.
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The kitchen | Living room |
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Bunk bed in the bedroom | And a cabinet (complete with some forestry books) |
Given that the blizzard seems to have passed we decide to continue with our original plan to go down the Grandview Trail to Horseshoe Mesa and back. The trailhead is quite close - about 2 miles by car and soon we are starting our vertiginous descent over the narrow trail with steps in the most dangerous or steep places.
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That is where we are going | Descent is quite steep aided by stairs |
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Ok that looks precarious | Getting closer to the first even stretch |
After what feels like an unending descent we finally arrive at a short flat portion where our knees can get a break and we can enjoy the flowers by the side of the trail.
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Last descent | That is where we come from |
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Going round the peak | Flowers and stones |
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Liked by hummingbirds - I can see why | Hidden from sight |
Soon our break is over and the descent begins again but this time at least we see Horseshoe Mesa so we know how far we still have to go - more than we expected. The descent is again quite steep for a while but then it is more reasonable as we finally approach Horseshoe Mesa after about 4 hours of hiking downhill.
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Our final destination - Horseshoe Mesa | Is there really a trail here? |
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Barely sometimes | Quite good other times |
Before reaching Horseshoe Mesa we pass the old uranium mine - it was one of the most productive uranium mines in the 1950s but now it is closed and unfortunately it is forbidden to enter it. And then we finally reach the old cabin that marks the beginning of Horseshoe Mesa at the end of our descent.
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Old uranium mine - off limits | Nice old juniper tree |
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Old cabin on Horseshoe Mesa | Looking inside |
From here we plan on walking a bit more and try to reach Cave of the Domes which was our original goal. The walk on the mesa is quite easy and we enjoy the level walk and even find some flowering cacti on the way to the Cave.
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Walking on the mesa | Cacti flower |
Unfortunately the Cave of the Domes is closed due to the risk of hantavirus so we can only see it from the outside. At least we hope we see the right one as without getting closer we cannot decide which of the many entrances is the cave.
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Cave of the Domes - our goal - is closed | Is this the cave? |
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Or this? | Or maybe this? |
On the way back we are not in such a hurry so we have time to enjoy the views, eat lunch and even notice a hidden jackrabbit who doesn't think we are seeing him.
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Nice views from the plateau | Our trail passes through here |
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Not looking in the right direction | Starting the climb |
However soon we get a renewed urgency as we notice clouds gathering over the canyon and even some rain. If there is something we don't want is to climb te hard exposed trail if it is raining and especially if there is a chance of lightning.
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Rain is coming | Ok this looks bad |
Luckily the rain seems to dissipate behind us however we are already in the rhythm so the climb goes much faster than expected. As the sun is falling the rocks take some great colors and it is a good excuse for a breather to stop and take a look at them.
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Not much rain here | Still a way to go down |
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What can you see in the stone face? | Already climbed quite a bit |
Close to the sunset the views become quite special and we stop almost constantly to gaze at the views (not because we are tired:). With no one else on the trail we can take it easy as we climb and just as the last rays of the sun disappear we get to the top. After that it is a short drive to the cabin where after a hot meal we go to sleep.
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Beautiful view during the sunset of spire | Looking back to the clouds |
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The red wall | Sunset in Grand Canyon |
We are still sore from the day before so today we plan a short day before returning to Phoenix. But first we have to clean the cabin close all windows and say goodbye to the resident squirrel. We are surprised there is no sign left of the blizzard - it is like there never was one - no snow on the ground, road is clear - quite nice for us.
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Our cabin in the morning - no snow left | The permanent resident |
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Bathroom - still far away | Gaslights in the cabin |
The trail we chose is quite close to the cabin and is a short nature trail to the Vishnu Overlook with some nice views and lots of flowers on the way. It is good it is short as our feet are killing us so after we finish it we decide to give up on hiking for the day and drive back to Phoenix.
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Arizona Trailhead | Fire watchtower |
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Our trail | Looks nice but a parasite |
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Spring flowers | And some yellow ones |
Still even from the car we find something interesting - there are javelinas on the side of the road so we pull over to watch them for some time before continuing on through the mountains back to Phoenix.
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Javelinas - rare sight for us | Snow capped Mt Humphreys |
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